04 700 EFI - wiring problems again...

[rangertom]

Ok,

After having fixed, then replacing the T-BAP sensor connector, here I am again, 500 miles since replacing it, one of the wires is broken, yet again. It's not broken where I spliced in the repair connector, but rather at the connector itself. This, as some might guess or recall, causes a nice code... in this case, a Code 45.

This isn't the only problem, however, I've a new and improved code as well! A wonderful Code 54. Woohah! This one's got three different possibilities... 1. Open Load (What's this mean to the laymen?)
2. Short circuit to ground (loose wire?)
3. Short circuit to battery (same as above?)

Advise me... Should I:
A. say F-it and just get the entire wiring harness replaced?
B. try to fix it myself?

Would a new wiring harness be better/stronger than the original?

Hmmm...and so are the days with my BAD7.

Thanks

[MrBill]

So what do you think is the problem?
Wiring to short keeping tension on the connectors or what.
If this is the case I would just splice in some more wire to give more slack to the wires.
When splicing I would use non-insulated butt splices and the use shrink tubing with silicone sealer inserted under tubing before heating. This works great for water proofing.

[rangertom]

So what do you think is the problem?

Here's what I think the problem is. Someone with no more experience than I is creating these connectors. They're not stress relieved enough (between wire and connection inside the connector housing.) Fact is, I'm not very good or handy with this soldering business, and don't really know where to get the connectors I need to do this job right anyway.

The original T-BAP connector lasted almost 1800 miles before it took a crap. The replacement one lasted less than 500! I'm tired of just band-aiding as fixes. I really thought a factory repair part would work like a champ, but it sure didn't.

I've got to put a multi-meter on the machine, per the manual, to get closer to the answer on the Temp Sensor deal.

[rangertom]

update...

The engine temp sensor ohm's out correctly, and the code 54 is now gone (without having really done anything to fix it). However, after carefully assessing the work involved with replacing the wiring harness, I'll reluctantly pay the $240 to have the dealership mechanic replace it.

Chadd, if you'd be so kind (if you still can) please double-check the 4 hours allocated by the shop manual to replace the entire wiring harness.

I suppose I'll order the repair wiring, again, for the T-BAP sensor and upon installation, immobilize the wires better leading into the sensor connector (as they are obviously the weakest point and/or most susceptable to vibration damage).